From Glasgow, we take a bus to Kennacraig where we catch the ferry to the Isle of Islay. It’s a whole-day trip all in all, but we get to see the Scottish countryside and several Loch’s from the bus, and the ferry ride is also very nice. In Port Askaig on the island, we pick up our rental car right at the ferry terminal. This is the first time I get to drive in the UK—the steering wheel is on the right side, and the cars drive on the left… it’s surprising how disorienting it is. It takes a while to get a feel for the dimensions of the car and knowing how close to the left edge of the road to drive. It does not help that most of the oncoming traffic just drives in the middle of the road. And then there are many roads on the island that are only one lane wide and have passing places to pull into for letting oncoming traffic pass. My first drive to our accommodation in Portnahaven feels like my first drive ever, and I end up with lines of cars behind me and impatient drivers passing me at every possible spot. I don’t mind and pull over wherever I can to get rid of anyone pushing me from behind—I’m on vacation, after all.
We stop at the biggest grocery store on the island in Bowmore to get some water and breakfast food. Finally, after almost an hour of slow driving, we arrive in Portnahaven and find our lovely cottage with a view to the bay. We can feel peace wash over ourselves as we take in the stunning scenery, and I decide right in that moment that I never want to leave this place again. The cottage itself has its own garden in the back with a path and steps up to where our car is parked. In front is our own bench overseeing the bay—it’s almost a meditative experience to sit here with a view on whitewashed cottages surrounding the bay, seagulls soaring ahead and seals squabbling for the best spots on sunny rocks. The seals make eery sounds that I’ve never heard before, and I am reminded of sailor stories of seductive sirens.
The heat in the cottage is by wood or coal fire, and our host, who lives next door, shows me how to build a fire properly and lights the first one for us, so we’re cozy in the evening and night. It becomes great fun for me to build a fire every evening in layers of fire starter, kindling, coals, and after the coals are done later in the evening, I add a log on top to keep us warm at night. Sitting on the couch, we can watch the fire but also the sunset through the window. There is no need for tv or other entertainment here.
We have a reservation for the local pub on our first night here, only a 5 minute walk from our place, on the other side of the bay. We walk past the small sandy beach and find the pub quickly; they just opened a few months ago and quickly became a favourite of locals and visitors. We order fresh local fish, and the food is simple but good.
Speaking of fish, our host at the cottage gives us a big bowl of cooked shellfish from his last catch. We end up eating shellfish for three days—it was awesome!—although also a fair bit of work to get into the lobster pincers. The generosity is unparalleled, and we are very grateful.
The next days will be dedicated to exploring the island and whisky distilleries, as well to take part in the annual whisky festival, the Feis Ile.
You know I hear so much that the water really makes the whiskey or adds properties. Hence why Scotch is so good and different depending on where it is made. I will be honest I don’t see why. It’s not like i have seen pics of flowing streams and rivers of crystal clear water. Most of the water near the distilleries seems kind of swampy or boggy!?
The place looks lovely and cozy!
C